Similar to Lucknow, Chikan is a traditional embroidery style in which intricate patterns are hand-embroidered on delicate fabrics by skilled artisans.
One of the oldest traditional art forms, Megasthenese, a Greek traveller, mentions Chikankari in his accounts as early as 3 B.C. Interestingly, other reports mention that the Persian art form was introduced in India by Jehangir’s wife, Noor Jahan, in the 17th century.
However, a lesser-known tale mentions that a traveller trained a villager in Lucknow in Chikankari work to ensure that it earned him and his family livelihood. Currently, families in and around Lucknow are involved in keeping this dying art form alive. Incidentally, almost 90% of the embroidery work is done by women, thereby making it one of the many ways of financially empowering them.
Chikankari – Transitioning from Traditional Silhouettes to Cater Modern Tastes
Traditional Chikankari involves an amazing array of 32 types of stitches. The most prominent among them are Tepchi (long running stitch), Jaali (small holes created by buttonhole stitch in the back of the fabric), Bakhiya (shadow stitch), Ghaas-Patti (herringbone stitch), Phanda, and Murri (types of French knots). Each has its own charm and undeniable beauty.
Early Chikankari often used white embroidery on muslin or cotton fabric, but this was banned at one point. Since it is not possible to find shalwar or sari in pastel colors, they are not suitable for today’s generation. But as times and tastes changed, owners began using different colors and fabrics to create beautiful effects!
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